Auxerre and around

Situated in the heart of the Yonne is Auxerre, a pretty town overlooking River Yonne with a lovely selection of churches. The town’s superb heritage is displayed in the architectural delights of the local churches and buildings. The surroundings areas of beautiful countryside and pretty villages are also well worth the visit and make Auxerre a great base from which to travel.

Church of St Germain

Founded by Queen Clothilde, wife of Clovis, the first Christian king of France, this abbey church is an important shrine and houses a Carolingian crypt of tombs and 11th-13th century frescoes.

Cathedral of St-Etienne

Built on the site of an old church dating back to 400 AD, this lovely Gothic cathedral took over 3 centuries to build and was finally completed in the 16th century. It boasts superb 13th century stain-glass windows, frescoes and an 11th century crypt.

Museum of St-Etienne

This museum is housed in the former abbey.

Surrounding areas of Auxerre

To the North of Auxerre lies the town of Joigny. Situated on the banks of the River Yonne the old and characteristic houses of Joigny are dotted up the slopes of the landscape, where in the 10th century a fort was constructed. Today Joigny is a quiet place but is worth stopping off at for refreshments to take in a few of its sites. The 6th century Chateau des Gondi, the Church of St Jean, the Maison de Pilori and the Maison de l’Arbre de Jessé are all worthy of a visit.

Sens is one of the most northern towns of Burgundy and is named after the Senones who tried to capture Rome in 390 BC. Lying on the River Yonne, Sens is a peaceful and uneventful town but here you will find one of the oldest and great Gothic cathedrals. The 11th century, St-Etienne Cathedral, is designed by William of Sens, who also rebuilt the choir of Cantebury Cathedral, in England. The treasury is home to many antiquities and jewels including, embroideries and vestments from many different countries. Other sites of interest in Sens, include the Palais Synodal, the Musée de Sens and its superb collection of Gallo-Roman treasures and the Maison d’Abraham.

La Puisaye lies to the west of Auxerre in an area of astounding beauty and wilderness. Adorned with shaded forest, luscious water meadows and orchards, its landscape is significantly different from the rest of Burgundy. Best explored on foot or bicycle, there is lots to see and do including the Musée Colette; the Chateau de Guedelon, a medieval reconstruction using original building methods and materials; the Chateau de Ratilly and its pottery and art exhibitions and the Chateau de St-Fargeau.

Chablis, Tonnere,Chateau de Tanlay, are all situated to the east of Auxerre. Chablis is famous for its dry white wines and the lovely picturesque town also boasts the interesting church of St-Martin, which is decorated with horseshoes and rustic iron works. Tonnere lies further east and the curious yet delightful spring of Fosse Dionne is quite lovely. The blue-green waters shoot up in copious amounts from the ground into an 18th century washing place. The spring is so deep that attempts to establish its origin have stopped at 360m along a narrow tunnel. It is too dangerous to go any further. Legend says that a serpent lives within this endless tunnel and it actually leads to hell itself. Other attractions include the Hotel-Dieu and the Hotel d’Urzes.

Chateau de Tanlay is a moated grand chateau that is a fine example of Renaissance architecture. Built in the 16th century, it boasts a superb ‘Grand Galerie’ with a tromp l’oeil and an exquisite collection of antiquities. South of Tonerre is the Abbaye de Fontenay, the oldest surviving Cistercian foundation in France. Founded in 1118, the stunning architecture and peaceful grounds are lovely. Highlights include the beautiful cloisters, extensive dormitory, and the ornate chapterhouse and scriptorium.

The Morvan Region is in the southwest region of Burgundy (running from Avallon, south of Auxerre down to Le Creusot) and includes the towns and villages of Clamecy, Vézelay, Avallon, Autun and Le Creusot. Not only does it include a fabulous National Park in which a number of sporting activities, such as fishing, cycling, canoeing, skiing and horse riding are available, but also, the region boasts an array of fine chateaus and churches of historical interest. A particular treat is the Basilica of Ste-Madeleine in Vézelay; the museum at Clamecy; Church of St Lazarre at Avallon and the Ecomusée of Creusot-Montceau housed in the Chateau de la Verrerie.

Basilica of Ste-Madeleine

A glorious and magnificent 12th century abbey that was supposed to house the relics of Mary Magdalene and was an important meeting point for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela in Spain. This architectural wonder will take your breath away with is splendid Tour St-Michel, ornate typanum sculpture, impressive nave, lofty choir and intriguing Romanesque crypt. This is a must see if you are travelling through the region and is located between Avallon and Clamecy on the D977.

Saulieau is a town situated on the edge of the Morvan district and the third weekend of every August brings their much-favoured Charollais festival of locally reared meat and produce. A similar festival occurs in the town for Ascension Day weekend. Sites of interest here include the Basilica of St-Andoche and the Museum of Francois-Pompon.

Nevers lies within the Niévre region on the western most side of Burgundy and actually borders the Loire Valley. An old town of some splendour, its boast a Dukes Palace, the lovely Cathedral of St-Cyr, an 11th century church of Etienne, the convent of St-Gildard and an archaeology museum of Greek and Roman statuary.

Dijon

Dijon has always been an important town due to its ideal position for merchant routes, travelling from Britain to the Alps and across to the Adriatic. It was an important stopover on the spice route, hence its famous speciality the pain d’epice (spice bread) and Dijon mustard. Its historical importance as the Burgundian capital becomes obvious when looking at the cities buildings, palaces and museums. The dukes of Burgundy, particularly in the 14th and 15th century used their resources and wealth to make Dijon one of the most impressive centres of the age for art and science in Europe. For this very reason, Dijon is a vibrant, and colourful town bursting with life and culture. Its restaurants, cafes and markets alongside museums and historical sites will keep you entertained for days.

Palais des Ducs

This former Palace of the Dukes of Burgundy is the true heart of the ducal capital. Originally, the Dukes held court here but today, the building you see is mostly 17th century and it houses, along with the Town Hall, the Fine Arts Museum (Musée des Beaux Arts). This museum is one of the great museums of Europe and boasts fine and superior collections including masterworks of mediaeval paintings and sculpture, and more fascinating still the ornate and opulent the tombs of the Dukes of Burgundy. The giant mausoleums lie within the Salle de Garde and are adorned with amazing sculptures by the famous Claus Sluter. The 15th century Tour de Philippe le Bon stands outside and is all of 46metres (150ft) high with lovely views of Burgundy’s rooftops and cathedral spire (visits are on guided tours only).

The Cathedral of Saint-Benigne

This is an 11th century abbey of which little remains today. It is the former Benedictine abbey dedicated to St Benigne and this monastery was the centre of the Cluniac reform movement. More fascinating is the Romanesque crypt, which lies below the Gothic church. It contains fascinating sculptures and a rotunda ringed by three circles of columns and is dated back to the 10th century. Next door amongst the abbey gardens and within the old dormitory of the Benedictine Abbey, lies the Archaeology museum and its superb collection of Gallo-Roman finds.

Church of Notre Dame

Situated in the Quartier Notre-Dame is this 13th century Gothic styled Burgundian church. The exterior is adorned with gargoyles, a Jacquemart clock and a chouette (owl) that is supposed to bring good luck when touched. The interior boasts a splendid stain glass window that has survived since the 13th century an in the north transept stands the 9th century wooden ‘black’ virgin, the oldest in France.

Another interesting church to visit is the Church of St-Michel, situated on the Place de St Michel.

Chartreuse de Champmol

The Chartreuse de Champmol lies about 1.5km west of the city centre andwas founded by Philip the Bold at the end of the 14th century. It was used as the burial place for the dynasty of the Dukes of Burgundy. Sadly almost completely destroyed in the Revolution, all that really remains now is a chapel doorway and the ‘Well of Moses’, a monument that features six portrayals of Old testament prophets, by Claus Sluter. The extravagant artwork that once stood within its walls, are now mostly displayed in the Museum of Fine Arts within the Palace. Today this ancient site lies within the grounds of a psychiatric hospital but is still worth a visit.

Museums of Dijon

The Museum of Fine Arts, in the east wing of the Dukes Palace,boasts a superb Flemish exhibition from the masters such as Melchior Broederlam, with additional French and Italian works. There are amongst others pieces of interest, an interesting wood carving room with work by the 16th century designer Hughes Sambin, modern and contemporary galleries. The museum also allows you to view some of the more preserved areas of the Palace. The Musée Magnin housed in the 17th century mansion, exhibits the personal collection of Maurice Magnin, which was donated in 1938. The paintings are good, but by less well-known artists and the house is probably more interesting with its original furnishings. The Musée de la vive Bourguignon is situated on the Rue St Anne in a former convent. Its interesting exhibits of costumes, furniture and pieces of local history and industry depict 19th century life in Burgundy. Almost adjacent to this museum is the Musée d’Art Sacré, into which you can have free entrance using your ticket from the Museum of Burgundy Life. This Museum of Sacred Art houses not only treasured church collections but also the 17th century statue of St Paul. The Archaeology Museum on the rue de Docteur Maret is housed in the old dormitory of the Benedictine Abbey of St-Bénigne. The beautiful vaulted roof of the 11th century chapter house shelters the collection of ancient Gallo-Roman sculptures and other findings and treasures, can be visited in additional areas of this spectacular museum. Musée Grevin is a funny museum of waxworks that depicts scenes from Burgundy’s past. It is situated a little west of the city centre on the Avenue Albert 1 er. More interesting though is the Natural History Museum on Avenue Albert 1 er, with an array of animal, bird and insect collections and its adjacent botanical gardens.

Tip: The tourist office of Dijon produces a leaflet called ‘Promenez-vous en Cote d’Or’, which shows all the regions marked paths and walks.
The Dijon Card allows you access to all museums and free-guided tours and public transport. For a 24-hour card it is approximately €8, 48 hours is €11 and 72 hours is €14.

Beaune

Situated in the heart of the Côte d’Or, Beaune is full of character. Its old narrow cobbled streets and beautiful buildings provide the perfect authentic surroundings to dine ‘al fresco’ and sample the local wines. Beaune, although a little more-pricey than some areas of the region, makes the perfect base to explore the local area and its attractions.

Collégiale Notre-Dame

Situated on the rue d’Enfer, this beautiful Romanesque church houses, five extraordinary Tornai woollen and silk tapestries from the 15th century that illustrate the life of the Virgin Mary.

Hôtel Dieu

This is one of Beaune’s best attractions. The 15th century hospital lies on the corner of the Place de la Halle. The building itself is wonderfully colourful and decorative with cobbled courtyards, steep sloping roofs, mosaic tiles, high dormer windows and wooden galleries, and it still boasts a huge number of original features. The Gothic fireplace in the kitchen, paintings and frescoes that line the Saint Annes room and Saint Louis room and the two religious masterpieces, Christ-de-Pitié statue and Van der Wadens polyptych are just some examples. This old hospital has been described as one on Frances medieval treasures. A major wine auction takes place here on the third Sunday in November. The prices paid at the auction set the standards for the season ahead. It is known as the ‘Les Trois Glorieuses’ and is part of a 3-day festival, which also includes a banquet of the 'Confrérie des Chevaliers du taste vin' at the Chateau Clos de Vougeot, on the Saturday, and a grower’s party at the La Paulée de Meursault on the Monday.

Museums of Beaune

Beaune also has a Wine Museum (musée du vin Bourgogne) in the private residence of the dukes of Burgundy and the Museum of Fine Arts in the Port de Bourgogne and the Musée de Marey, which is dedicated to early movie photography.

Tip: The ticket for entrance into the Wine Museum costs approximately €5.10 and will allow free entry into the other two museums in Beaune.

Maçon

Situated in the heart of the Saône Valley, Macon lies on the banks of the River Saône and is really on the border of Burgundy. The sites within Maçon are rather limited. However, it is a lovely place to drive through and stop for refreshments in one of the many lovely riverside cafes.

Maison de Bois

This ‘House of Wood’ is a quirky attraction adorned with weird and wonderful carvings, this house was built around 1500 and even boasts a bar/cafe that is open until 2 or 3am.

Museums of Maçon

The Hôtel Senecé houses the Maritime Museum, which is dedicated to the famous French poet Lamartine. Born in Maçon he spent his childhood at Milly Lamartine. Exhibits include memorabilia and personal belongings from his poetical and political life. The Musée des Ursullines is a medieval art and Gallo-Roman archaeological museum situated on the rue des Ursulines in a 17th century convent.

Surrounding areas

Situated north of Maçon, on the A6 route to Beaune, is the small and picturesque town of Tournus. Here you will find the 9th century ‘Abbaye de St –Philibert’ and the 17th century Hôtel Dieu.

Abbaye de St Philibert

This is the oldest Romanesque building in Burgundy and is much favoured. The abbey was founded by monks in the 9th century who had been driven from Noirmoutier, off the Atlantic coast, by the Normans. Monks brought with them their patron saint Philibert. Toady the present building dates back to the 10th–12th centuries, when it was rebuilt. The nave is stunning and is superbly elegant and grand. Beside the church is the Burgundy Museum (Musée de Bourguignon) which has exhibits of costumes, furniture and wax models depicting life in the 19th century.

Hôtel Dieu

It was originally set up as a charity hospital by the sisters of Saint Martha in the 17th century and did not close until 1978. It still houses the rows of closed oak beds and boasts a fascinating pharmacy and dispensary. The Musée Greuze, also housed within this building, is dedicated to the local 19th century painter Jean-Baptiste Greuze.

Further south of Maçon are small town of Brou which has a wonderful 16th century church and the lovely town of Bourg-en-Bresse, which boasts and excellent weekly market.

The Maçonnais region lies just north of Maçon and is famous for its white wines from the villages of Ouilly, Vinzelles, Prissé and Fuissé. The great rock of Solutré overlooks the vineyards of Pouilly- Fuissé, beneath which is an ancient prehistoric site where archaeologists have foundbones of over 1,000 horses along with mammoth, bison and reindeer carcasses. The adjacent Musée Départmental de Préhistoire displays some of these findings. The Maçonnais area includes villages such as Cluny, where you will find the Romanesque Church of St-Marcel, the Ancient 10th century, Abbey of Cluny, which was one of the most influential and important monastic foundations in Europe, and the Musuem of Art and Archaeology, which lies within the former Abbots Palace.

Beaujolais is a region that lies south of Maçon on route to Villefranche. Its fruity red wines produced from the Gamay grape and grown on the terraced hills are well known and liked. But Beaujolais has additional treats for visitors. In the town of Paray-le-Monial lies the Basilique du Sacré-Coeur, dedicated to the cult of the Sacred Heart of Jesus. This lovely building adorned with apses, chapels and an octagonal belfry, was once one of the most important places on the pilgrimage trail. Other attractions to visit here include the Musée de Paul Charnoz and the Maison Jayet.

Charollais lies to the west of Maçon and this region is famous for its cream coloured curly haired, robust breed of cattle, favoured for its lean, tasty meat. The landscape boasts rich and luscious pastures and meandering rivers and streams. Villages and churches are scattered through the landscape and the general feel of the Maçonnais, Beaugolais and the Charollais region is that they have stopped in time, they still have that great country and community spirit. Within the region of Charollais you will find the village of Anzay-le-Duc and its Romanesque church and remains of the ancient priory. The charming and serene town of Montceaux-L’Etoile is a little nearer to Paray and boasts a lovely old church with sculptures and the town of Digoin is well worth a visit.

Wines & Wine Regions

With a superb history of wine making that goes right back to the 10th century and beyond, Burgundy has tried, tested and succeeded in producing some of the best wines in the world. It is actually one of the most northern wine growing areas and is well known for its fine red wines. The climate is cool and the frosts and hail can be hazardous to crops, many vintages are very good indeed. Up until the French Revolution in 1780, the vineyards of Burgundy were owned by the church. In later years they were sold off to the workers who nurtured and tendered them and were the precursors for the superb family run vineyards that then continued. Not all wines from this region live up to the reputation. However, it is possible to find extremely good growers and vineyards that have a product that lives up to its name. There are only a few types of grape used in Burgundy. The primary grapes here are Chardonnay for whites and Pinot Noir and Gamay for red.

Burgundy is divided into five distinct wine growing areas:

Chablis is located in the North of Burgundy andproduces all white wines from the Chardonnay grape.

The Cote d'Or (known as the Slope of Gold) is divided between the north, called the Cotes de Nuits, which produces almost all red wines and goes up nearly as far as Dijon and the South called the Cote de Beaune, which produces most of the whites of Cote d'Or.

Chalonnais lies in the region just below Beaune, in the Saône et Loire and produces mainly red wines with a small percentage of white.

Maconnais lying north of Beaujolais and west of Maçon, this region produces mainly white wines but also a small percentage of red.

Beaujolais is in the southern part of Burgundy and mostly produces red wines from the Gamay grape.

Chablis

The Chablis region covers over 5,000 acres and is the northernmost wine growing area in Burgundy. Situated 75 miles southeast of Paris and 75 miles northwest of Beaune in the Yonne Valley, it is dissected by the Serein River flowing through the heart of the region. Burgundy’s cool climate suits the Chardonnay grape perfectly and Chablis produces very rich but dry tasting wines from this particular grape. Chablis vineyards often mature their wines in steel tanks to give it a ‘zesty’ flavour. Some of the best and most famous wines in the world are produced in this region.

Chablis, like all Burgundy, is divided into Crus:

Grand Cru - are produced from the best vineyards.

Premier Cru - is the next best thing although sometimes it can be better than Grand Cru depending on the producer.

Chablis & Petite Chablis - usually the best buys are from the good years.

The Cote d'Or

This is the premium grape growing area in Burgundy, and it produces some of the finest and most expensive wines in the world. (There are 30 Grand crus in the Cote d'Or.) The Cote d’Or is divided into further regions of:

Côte de Nuits in the northern part of the Côte d'Or, where they mainly use the Pinot Noir grape to produce all but one of the most exclusive red Grand Cru wines in Burgundy.

Côte de Beaune is often known as the wine capital of Burgundy due to Beaune housing some of the largest producers in the region. Located in the southern part of the Côte d'Or, it produces some of the best red wines from the Pinot Noir grape and white wines from the Chardonnay grape.

Chalonnaise

Chalonnaise is probably the least well-known of the five regions in Burgundy. It produces some crisp Chardonnays as well as some fruity Pinot Noirs. Great values can be found in this "sleeper" region of Burgundy. The Côte Chalonnaise is also the home of Bouzeron, which makes some very special Aligote (the other white grape in Burgundy) wines as well as Rully, which makes some excellent Cremant (sparkling) wines.

Maconnais

The region of Maconnais covers 12,600 acres. Half of the wine produced is white and the best known is Pouilly-Fuisse, made from the chardonnay grape, the wines are described as fruity and fresh. Other village wines can be just as good though, such as Saint Veran and Pouilly-Vinzelle and are usually half the price. It is definitely worth looking around and trying and large selection.

Beaujolais

Situated in the southern part of Burgundy, with a slightly warmer climate, this region produces red wines made from the Gamay grape.

Tip: There are approximately 40 Beaujolais Villages that produce better wine than regular Beaujolais, so it is worth travelling and tasting!

White wine growing areas and villages include:

Corton – Charlemagne, Meursault, Puligny-Montrachet, Chassagne-Montrachet, St. Aubin, and Le Montrachet.

Best producers Chablis include; Domaine Jean-Marc Brocard, Domaine René et Vincent Dauvissat, Daniel-Etienne Defraix, Domaine Jean Durup et Fils, Domaine William Févre, and Domaine François Raveneau.

Red Wine growing areas and villages include:

Fixin, Gevrey Chambertin, Morey-Saint-Denis, Chambolle-Musigny, Vouget, Vosne-Romanee, Nuits St George, Aloxe-Corton, Savigny-les-Beaune and Pernard-Vergelesses, Beaune, Pommard, Volnay, Santenay, Rully, Givry, Mercury, and Montagny.

Best Producers in Côte d’Or include; Alain Burguet, Louis Carillon et Fils, Chandon de Brialles Domaine de l’Ardot, Michel Lafarge, Ramonet, Jadot and Armand Rousseau.