The St Jean district with it’s 16th century half-timbered buildings (around the church of St Jean) is probably the best place to find a good meal. There are cafés, restaurants, brasseries and inexpensive crêperies galore along the rue Champeaux on the way to Place Alexandre Israël, the hub of Troyes’ nightlife. On the other side of the old town, the smaller, charming Vauluisant quarter boasts its own pedestrian avenue of gastronomic delights along rue Général Saussier. There are also some reasonably priced kebab places around the less pleasant rue de la Cité near the cathedral.

The following dining options just are a few of our favourites:

Le Valentino - Troyes' top restaurant has an inventive chef who combines different tastes from around the world. Menus range from around €20 to €45. Closed Saturday lunch, Mondays & 3 weeks in August & September.
11 cour de la Rencontre (+33 (0)3 25 73 14 14).

La Clef de Voûte – a great choice for cheese lovers – this restaurant specializes in cuisine de fromage. Dishes include both regional and exotic fondues. Closed Sundays.
33-35 rue Général Saussier (+33 (0)3 25 73 72 07).

Bistroquet – delicious homestyle cooking, also a good place to try the regional speciality of andouillette. Menus from around €15. Closed Sunday evening.
Place Langevin (+33 (0)3 25 80 58 23).

Aux Crieurs de Vin – part restaurant, part wine cellar. Simple fare with a good choice of wines. Closed Sundays & Mondays.
4-6 Place Jean Jaurès (+33 (0)3 25 40 01 01).

La Tourelle – the best of several crêperies, spectacularly located in a half-timbered building with its own fairytale tower and views of the church of St-Jean.
9 rue Champeaux (+33 (0) 3 25 73 22 40).

For gourmet cuisine, if you’re driving around the region, then look out for Hostellerie de la Chaumière on the Route Nationale in rural Arsonval or La Toque Baralbine, a small restaurant in Bar en Aube’s main street which also serves divine food.